One 8 pin IC, 6 resistors and a LED :-) for high performance RIFE applications

Frex-PFA-2 is an upgrade to the FreX-PFA-1 (do-it-yourself) circuit that makes an excellent high performance RIFE Frequency Therapy contact instrument. This tutorial is a step by step instruction on how to build your own high performance contact pad system for around $30. FreX-PFA-2 output signal is as good as all the $2,000+ RIFE audio instruments available today. Only the GB4000 would be better with its RF carrier but the FreX-PFA-2 has features even the GB4000 doesn't have. We have high performance square waves that generates high frequency sine wave harmonics allowing us to target all of Dr Hulda Clark and Dr Rife's frequency range. Between 300,000Hz to 1.6MHz Only 1 x 8 pin DIP IC and 6 resistors and a LED are used and insert into a simple to use bread board. A tiny bit of soldering is required for the contact leads, no soldering of the circuit is needed. FreX-PFA-2 uses the TSH22IN, High Performance dual powered operational amplifier. It will run from 3 VDC to 36 VDC, and has a 25MHz bandwidth, making it ideal to generate those very fast square waves which are so important to this application. You will easily be able to configure it for AC or DC applications. Numerous medical authorities working in this field only use DC signals for pathogen elimination, Dr Hulda Clark is a well know authority with pad systems as well as Dr Richard Loyd, who is an expert at both Rife and Clark applications. Dr Richard Loyd has commented that 10 VDC is as potent as 200 VAC. Live blood analysis displays DC signals support healthy blood cells while AC signals causes cells to clump together, reducing their ability to transport oxygen and nutrient around the body. FreX-PFA-2 Schematic FreX-PFA-2 Parts List Mouser.com is a good source for the TSH22IN Operational Amplifiers - I have used JayCar USA to source all the other components. Soldering: Can't get away from it entirely. The zero and plus leads of the 3.5mm audio lead need to be inserted into the bread board and the best way of doing this is by lightly tinning them with solder. The two alligator clips that attach the metal tubes to the audio lead also need soldering. If we get the large alligator clips with screws, these have too tight a clamp on the electrodes and we want the electrodes to easily come away from the leads for those accidents us humans often have. TSH22IN Operational Amplifier (You might want to get a couple of these as your friends will want one) TSH22IN @ Mouser.com $1.37 JayCar Bread Board $10.95 1k ohm 1/2 watt resistor 1% packet of 8 = $0.19 4.7k ohm 1/2 watt resistor 1% packet of 8 = $0.19 10k ohm 1/2 watt resistor 1% (we use two of these) packet of 8 = $0.19 150k ohm 1/2 watt resistor 1% packet of 8 = $0.19 300k ohm 1/2 watt resistor 1% packet of 8 = $0.19 Red LED 5mm so we know the circuit is on $0.15 Battery Snap Holder for 4 AA's, we want 2 of these (12volts). For those that want lots of power, 2 9VDC battery snaps can be used producing an 18 volt signal. You can please yourself here, the maximum power of the THS22IN is 36 volts ... Ouch ! (Remember, 15 volts or more DC will burn, especially in the audio levels) $0.70 each 3.5mm x 3 meter stereo lead - Nice to have a long lead from the PC/Notebook/MP3 Player/iPod or you can search for a 1.5 meter lead if you want it shorter. We are going to cut one end off and expose the wires (connects audio system to FreX-PFA-2) $3.50 Packet of 32mm Alligator clips for attaching metal tubes to audio lead (signal onto hands) $0.72 The last items we need are about 3 meters of stereo flex lead and two copper/stainless steel tubes to use as hand held electrodes. You local plumbing and audio shops can fix you up here. Wire Jumper Kit for making the connections. $4.95 Total comes to $24.17 and when we add postage, audio leads and metal tubes, then we should get out of it for around $30 ... Now, lets build it :-)

Step 1 Insert the THS22IN as shown with pin 1 on the bread board position E:10

Step 2 You can use sold wire or circuit jumpers as I have used to make connections. The yellow jumper goes from 0 volts to A:16 The orange jumper, jumps over to the upper side of the board connecting E:16 to F:16 The 10k resistor connects G:16 to G:13 This grounds pin 5 of the TSH22IN via this resistor

Step 3 Here we connect the voltage rails to the TSH22IN. Connect the green wire from - (minus) volts to A:13 which is pin 4 on the TSH22IN Connect the other green wire + (plus) volts to J:10 which is pin 8 on the TSH22IN You may need to use a small needle nose pliers to help insert these wires You can print this tutorial so you can easily reference the bread board positions in the above diagram

Step 4 Here we connect a 10k resister from 0 volts to A:12. This anchors the TSH22IN pin 3 to 0 volts.

Step 5 Now the 300k ohm resistor is positioned connecting B:10 to D:11 Notice how I have bent the resistor to fit into a close gap. Good practise to keep your FreX-PFA-2 circuit neat as we don't want resistors on long leads, poking up, ready to be knocked by something, thus coming loose This resistor is the pre-amplifier value, and allows for a low 10mV audio signal to be substantially amplified, and prepared for squaring. It connects pin 1 and pin 2 together on the TSH22IN

Step 6 Next we insert the 4.7k ohm resistor at A:11 to A:8 The audio frequency from the computer, etc. will come through here and provides impedance matching for the audio signal and the TSH22IN

Step 7 Now for the squaring function on the second amplifier. The 150k ohm resistor is inserted at H:11 to H:13 connecting pin 5 and pin 7 of the TSH22IN The pre-amplifier does a really nice job of getting the frequency wave form moving, and when it enters the second amplifier, it gets forced up very quickly giving us very good rise and fall times on our square wave. This is where our harmonics get generated.

Step 8 Last part of the actual circuit. Here we connect the pre-amplifier to the squaring amplifier. Three wires do the job. 1. The silver wire connects G:12 to G:7 2. The orange jumper on the left connects F:7 to E:7 3. The yellow jumper connects D:7 to D:10 Here we have joined pin 1 and pin 6 of the TSH22IN together. The pre-amplified signal goes out pin 1 and enters the second amplifier on pin 6 An error appeared here and was changed on 10th June 2008. It said pin one connected to pin five on the TSH22. The photo was right, pin one actually connects to pin six, not pin five. Sorry for the confusion. If you get lost, in what is new in each photo, just scroll up to the photo above and you'll see what is added :-)

Step 9 We are really getting close to testing out our new high performance RIFE machine. Take the 3.5mm stereo audio lead and cut one end off with wire cutters, and shred back the plastic insulation to expose the wires. Most 3.5mm audio leads have two leads connected together, We only need one of these leads as FreX outputs the same signal on both channels. We need access to the shielded wire (the outer wire), and the active wire, which will be cased in its own insulation. Usually colored red and white. Nice to use the red color as this denotes an active plus wire. After preparing them in similar fashion as we have in the photo, give the copper wires a little twist to make sure they are compacted together, ready for soldering.

Step 10 Now we have soldered the audio wires they should look something like mine in the photo They are now ready to be inserted into our FreX-PFA-2 circuit

Step 11 Place the 0 volts (audio common/shield) into the 0 volts line. Insert the red audio active wire into B:8 You may need to use needle nose pliers to firmly secure these wires.

Step 12 Adding a Red LED to let us know the circuit is active and has power. Insert a jumper from the + (plus) volts rail to J:1 Insert the 1k ohm resistor over the gap at F:1 to E:1 The LED wire with the long pin is the + pin. The short pin, closest to the flat cut out bevel in the LED plastic case is the - (minus) pin. We have to get this right otherwise we can destroy the LED, or it just wont work, can be frustrating. Insert the plus (+) pin into A:1 and the minus (-) pin into the minus volts rail. Do not connect the minus pin to 0 (zero), as this will draw power unevenly from the rails and will effect the output signal wave shape a little. We want to place an even load on both battery supplies, so this is how we do it.

Step 13 Creating a dual battery power supply is quite easy, and will provide you with numerous power configurations. If using DC connections, then we don't want to go above 15 volts, otherwise burns will happen. I like to use 12 volts for DC applications. If wanting to use AC, then we can go a little higher, and two or four 9 volt batteries can be used to give us 18 VAC or 36 VAC. I will show you have to utilise both types of signals here. But first, lets assume we are wanting to configure a 12 volts supply for DC use. Simply take a red and back wire from both battery snap packs, twist or solder together and this is it. You can see in the diagram to the right how the voltages are made available.

Step 14 Here we have 4 x 9 volt batteries providing 36 volts supply if using alkaline batteries, or around 32 volts if using chargeable batteries.

IMPORTANT : Always use the same type of batteries with the same charge, do not use slightly used batteries with new batteries. It is important that when we install batteries they carry all the same charge and are of all the same type.

Step 15 Second last step. Here we simply connect the batteries to our FreX-PFA-2 circuit. The red plus battery lead inserts into the red plus voltage rail. The joned red and black battery wire (0 volts) is inserted into the 0 volts rail. The black negative (-) battery lead is inserted into the bottom red (minus) voltage rail. If we have put the togther correctly, the red LED will come on.

Step 16

Here we have it, up and running. The two wires sticking up in the board is how we connect meters to test the circuit. The red long jumper on the bread board connects I:11 (frequency out) to a place down the board where we insert the output lead to the + (plus) electrode. If the long signal lead inserts at say I:30, then connect the plus (+) electrode wire to to H:30 The minus volt electrode connects to 0 volts for AC applications, or connects to - volts for DC applications close on the rail where the battery leads were inserted. To switch off the circuit, just pull the battery leads out and secure the tips to make sure they don't touch and short, which would very quickly kill the battery life.

Is It Working ? Connect the 3.5mm stereo lead to your conmputer headphone or speak output. Run FreX and output a frequency around 500Hz. Depending on your battery set-up, gently touch the electrodes and see if you get a tingle. If not, wet your hands in saline solution and grab the electrodes. You should now have comfirmation of it working. If you have a multi meter with a Hz function, simply connect it to the + and - outputs and check the frequency. The nature of this circuit is it is workining 100% or it isn't working at all. Set all computer volumes to around half, if you can hear it out the computer speakers, then it will work. It is an easy and very simple circuit to build, and is very rugged. The TSH22IN has losts of protection inbuilt into it, so not much can go wrong with this circuit. If you are still unsure, feel free to take a digital photo of your handy work, making sure it is a clear photo and send it to me and I'll have a look at your circuit. I need to be able to read the numbers on the bread borard. Here are some oscilloscope and spectrum analyiser shots of the FreX-PFA-2 signal 10,000Hz AC signal on a 2.1 GigaHertz Oscilloscope - very nice square waves. 10,000Hz AC with spectrum - harmonics good to 1.5MHz 20,000Hz AC with spectrum - harmonics good to 1.65MHz.